Chef Jaume Biarnés is demonstrating the art of extracting deep, delicious flavors from vegetables at Yondu Culinary Studio in New York. He believes that Korean fermented food techniques, practiced for centuries, offer a solution to feeding the growing global population while protecting the planet.
“Korea has the highest vegetable consumption in the world because vegetables are fermented to make them tasty,” Biarnés stated, emphasizing that encouraging people to eat more vegetables and adopt more sustainable diets can be achieved through enjoyable and fun methods.
Economic Sustainability and Green Practices
For Biarnés, who previously worked at El Bulli, sustainability is a fundamental aspect of being a chef and running a culinary business. He notes that in an industry with high costs and tight profit margins, every “green” initiative must make economic sense. “Sustainability is about securing future resources to continue operations. At a restaurant level, this means being economically viable. Globally, it means the same for our species,” he explained.
Biarnés argues that even restaurants not built with sustainability in mind can progressively move in this direction. He identifies controlling food waste as part of kitchen management but points to sourcing local produce as the real challenge. Busy chefs, he adds, often lack the time to find regional suppliers, and current food distribution networks do not prioritize proximity. “We need to fix this to ensure chefs have easier access to local products at a more competitive price.”
Policy also plays a crucial role, according to Biarnés, who cited the ban on single-use items in Europe as an example, contrasting it with the continued prevalence of disposable plates and cups in the U.S. “Policymakers must help businesses move away from single-use materials,” he stressed.
Modern Relevance of an Ancient Technique
As the Director of Yondu Culinary Studio, Biarnés focuses on Korean vegetable fermentation techniques. This practice, predating refrigeration, remains surprisingly relevant in an era of heightened climate consciousness.
“Fermentation is a traditional technique for preserving produce,” Biarnés said, citing examples of fermented products found globally, such as pickles, sauerkraut, cheese, and beer. He noted that the method is used both to preserve food and to create flavor.
By extending shelf life and reducing waste, fermented foods intensify flavor, making plant-based diets more appealing. This offers a dual benefit for individuals globally shifting towards vegetables, one of the most impactful dietary changes they can make for the planet.
Love and Sharing
Biarnés, who is Catalan but promotes Korean culinary traditions in New York, embodies the cross-cultural flow that defines contemporary gastronomy. “We live in a time when ideas sometimes travel faster than ingredients,” he observed, noting that it’s possible to see recipes on TikTok or Instagram before finding the ingredients.
“A kitchen and a table are a way to understand each other,” Biarnés shared, explaining that he can best convey his culture and love for his country by sharing his dishes and ingredients with others. For those looking to apply these principles in their own kitchens, he echoes the advice of American author Michael Pollan: “Eat food, not too much, and mostly vegetables.”
Practical Tips for Your Kitchen:
- Buy ingredients, not processed foods. Fresh ingredients are often more local, tastier, and have a smaller carbon footprint.
- Check the origin. If a product comes from the other side of the world, it’s likely neither sustainable nor at its best flavor.
- Embrace seasonality. “Who wants to eat peaches in winter? They won’t taste good,” Biarnés said, noting that visiting local farmers’ markets is the best way to understand what’s ripe and ready.
- Plan to prevent waste. Know what you will cook before shopping, buy only what you need for a few days, and utilize your freezer for meal prep.
Above all, Biarnés emphasizes the importance of enjoying the process. “The most important thing is the enjoyment factor. Vegetables are good because they bring you joy. The vitamins and fibers come later.”
Sustainable Gastronomy Day is celebrated annually on June 18th to recognize gastronomy as a cultural expression related to the world’s natural and cultural diversity.
